Flash photography techniques / flash Light

flash or flash freely translated into the flash. This is one accessory that is widely used in the photography world. Its main function is to illuminate to (expose / lit) objects that lack the light to expose properly. But recently began expanding its use to produce artistic photographs. This article will discuss the basics of the knowledge required to use the flash properly.
Using the flash is not just a flash light, pointing the camera and click and be a bright picture, but there are things we need to know to get a good photographic work.
blitz and GN (Guide Number)
To divide / classify the blitz, there are several classifications that can be used. The first, based on the availability of in-camera flash is divided into built-in flash and external. built-in flash from the camera itself while the external flash is connected using an additional flash or hot shoe cable to the camera. In addition, we can also divide it by the type / brand of camera.
We recognize the dedicated flash and non-dedicated flash. Dedicated flash is a flash that is made specifically for the use of certain features within a specific camera. Usually the camera maker also issued a specific flash for the camera range and can use features such as TTL, slow sync or rear sync, etc.. While non-dedicated flash has a very general functions of most cameras and can be used regardless of the type / brand of camera. This type of flash that usually requires a lot of computation because the flash that has been dedicated already received information from the camera lighting so it does not require additional settings again.
There are also flash output power (GN) can be arranged, and some are not (fixed GN). We will tend to be much talk about a non-dedicated flash, non-TTL, and fixed GN.
The use of flash photography, we will not be separated from the calculations related to the intensity of light reflected back from objects we cahayai. Therefore, we will meet with what is often called GN (Guide Number) or the power of flash. In short we can say that the magnitude of the flash, it can expose an object with more light and can reach a more distant object.
GN is basically a simple calculation of the power of flash. There are 2 kinds of writing notes is by using a different calculation unit is m (m) and feet (ft). Normally in Indonesia we use a count of the m. This is one of the considerations as well as for the flash with the same strength, GN numbers m and different feet away. In addition, notes are generally written for the use of film with ISO / ASA 100 and wide-angle (35mm/24mm/20mm).
GN is a product of the distance from the aperture (f / stop or aperture) on certain conditions (ISO / ASA 100/35mm/m or ISO / ASA 100/35mm/feet). For example, if we want to use flash to photograph a person standing at a distance of 5m from us using a 35mm lens f/2.8, and we want to use flash then we need air-GN 14. Calculation which is used usually just looking for the right aperture for a particular blitz. For example, the flash GN 28 then to take pictures of objects within 5m are we going to use f/5.6.
The notes are only a guide for the photographer. Not set in stone. Affecting a few. One is the ISO / ASA used. Each increase in 1 stop on the ISO / ASA will cause the amount thereof increased by sqrt (2) or approximately 1.4 times (or farthest distance multiplied by 1.4) and 2 stop increase in ISO / ASA will lead to increased 2 times the amount thereof (or the furthest distance multiplied by 2 ).
Indoor flash
blitz often and almost always used in the room. The reason is because indoor lighting is usually somewhat less bright light to produce images that can be seen. Indeed, there is a technique using a slow shutter speed to capture more light, but this usually causes image blur due to shake hands rather the cameraman and the movement of people who want us to photograph. Therefore, we usually use a flash.
Its use is usually simple. We can set the digital camera on auto and let it do its job or it could be our own setting using a calculation that has been done above. Not difficult. However, there are some things we need to consider in order to get maximum results.
A. Do not take pictures of objects that are too close to the face perpendicular blitz. Take for example the flash GN 20 which I think is sufficient as an external flash for digital cameras in indoor shooting in a room (not the hall). If we want to call it one photograph at a distance of 2 meters with ISO / ASA 200 f/16 then we need are not available in most of the PDC and will produce images that are over. Therefore, for PDC / DSLR are usually already built-in flash is TTL and has a GN is rather small (8-12 in some PDC, 12-14 on a DSLR). Use it instead of an external flash to the object that is somewhat close.
2. Combining flash with slow shutter speed to get the main object tercahayai well and has a background light source is also well captured. This is a technique that's worth a try, and often produce beautiful images. Do not be afraid to use a low speed because the object that had already been recorded flash will freeze (freeze).
3. When the room is rather dark, beware of the red-eye effect / red eye effect. Red-eye occurs because pupils are dilated to familiarize yourself with a bit dark but the light suddenly struck a very bright light from the flash. If the camera and / or the flash contained pre-flash/red eye reduction facility, use it. If not, change the angle of arrival outsmart a flash of light that is not directly on the eye.
4. In the room there was a strong light source like a spotlight. Avoid photographing in direct overlooking into the strong light source except to get a silhouette that is not perfect (compensation under 1-2 stop for a good silhouette). In such conditions, use flash to fill in / illuminate the object to be photographed.
Bounce / Diffuse
flash is a very strong light source. In addition, the flash is the light that comes from the light source is small (narrow). Therefore, when light is exposed directly to an object will cause harsh lighting (harsh). In most of the photo documentation of personal consumption in which the officer documentation using point & shoot cameras (film / digital) is acceptable. But in the higher levels where the photo will be a general consumption, the hard path of light will give effect to a less unsightly. Plus this would normally cause bleaching light flash was a little white object and cause specific details disappear.
There are several ways that we can do to avoid this in terms of softening the light:
A. Expanding field that is by reflecting the light coming into the other fields (bounce).
2. Spreading the light coming from a small source so widespread (diffuse).
Bounce flash is done by reflecting the flash into a broad field so that the light comes in a wider angle. We can use the ceiling or wall in the room. If an external flash mounted on a digital camera connected via the hot shoe, then the flash must have a tilt facility to reflect the light. If attached via cable Synchro, then we can put the flash on a bracket with a slightly upright position / side or hold it in this position.
Reflect the proper position so that light falls exactly on the object is to expose the flash on the ceiling in the middle of the photographer / flash and the object.
Some of the things we need to consider the use of bounce flash is:
A. Distance to calculate the f / stop change is not the camera and the object distance, but turned into distance traveled by the light flash. Normally the tilt angle of 45 ° we will widen the aperture 1 stop and the tilt angle of 90 ° we widen the aperture by 2 stops. Surely this is just a brief guide. Depending on the technical implementation in the field.
2. Related to the no. 1 above, then the distance langit-langit/dinding should not be too far or it will be useless.
3. Always use white reflective areas and dark. Color other than white will cause the color contaminated image while dark colors will absorb the light flash.
4. Consider the possible emergence of a shadow on the other side of the light. For example, if we are bouncing into the ceiling then we will get a shadow under the nose or chin and if we are bouncing into the wall on the left then there will be a shadow on the right. To fix this we can slip a bounce in front of the flash card so that when we reflect light into the top / side we still have a light that is not too strong a forward and neutralize shadow appears.
To capture an image in a vertical, it would be easy if we use a wired connection because we can easily expose the flash to the top if using a bracket or held. But if we are the hot shoe connection then make sure we have the facilities swivel flash head so that we can play facing up. Be great if we have a flash that can tilt and swivel. It will accommodate most of our needs.
Another way to soften light is to expand the dispersion. How to use a flash diffuser. flash diffuser will spread the light emitted from a flash of light in all directions so that the exit is not hard. Generally available for some flash diffuser given different flash head. We can also make your own flash diffuser for us to use the various tools.
When we use the diffuser, we actually hinder a particular area of ​​the light flash and turn it into another place. This reduces the power of the flash that we use. If the diffuser is the result that we use to buy, then we can read what we need aperture compensation when calculating exposure. Usually found in a paper box or manual. If we decide to make your own, then we can do the experiment many times to get the right numbers for the necessary compensation other times.
Outdoor flash
At a glance if we think about the use of flash, then we'll know if it applies to the atmosphere of a lack of light shooting. Therefore, we generally do not think about the need to use flash in outdoor photography (during the day, of course) because the sun was very bright. This is where we started error. flash is needed on shooting outdoors, especially on:

    Condition of the object back to the sun. In this condition, the camera meter would have thought the atmosphere was bright enough so that it will cause the object to be photographed is dark / under because of a strong light is useless because it is not reflected by the object. Outsmart way is to do a fill in on an object so that even if the background is very bright but still get a light object.
    The sun is above the heavens. This will result in a shadow appears on the bottom of the nose and chin. Use the flash to eliminate them. To soften the light using bounce card or diffuser.
    The object is in open shade (shadow). flash is used to obtain the same lighting on the object as a whole will make the shadow darker shades in different parts of the object let alone a human face.
    The sky was blue and seductive. If we are not tempted by blue skies and willing to get a picture of a white sky when shooting outdoors it please do the metering on the object without using flash or a flash. If we are willing to object as long as the lack of light blue sky please do the metering on the sky. Well, if we want to keep the skies blue once the object tercahayai well, using metering on the sky and fill flash on the object. This will produce a mix of proper and fitting.
    The sky is clouded over. When the sky was overcast, do not hesitate to use a flash because of the effects of clouds will be the same as if we were under the shadow.